Candoni Pinot Noir 2007

Are you nostalgic for the days of the Etruscans? Well, Candoni wine company "wants to recall the Etruscan joy of life by offering our Pinot Noir." Pinot Noir has never really made me think of Etruscans, and frankly I've always associated it with France what with how Pinot Noir is, you know, a French term, but what the Hell. If they want to evoke the ancient Etruscans, than we shall evoke the Etruscans. Can you say toga party? Excellent! Toga! Toga! Toga!

Of course, we are evoking the collegiate joy of life more than the Etruscan, but I can live with that. And really, it's not my collegiate joy of life so much as John Belushi's, but whatever. Just drink and, for God's sake, be sure to pull down your toga before you sit down. Thanks.

Who were the Etruscans anyway? Well, they were a pre-Roman civilization living in parts of what is now Italy who are best known for their art, some of which was really, really dirty. And that's fine. But when I look at the label on my bottle of Candoni wines Pinot Noir 2007, and I see this guy in a blue toga delicately caressing the neck of a horse, I can't help but think of this and wonder . . . what in the Hell am I drinking?

All of that aside, the Pinot Noir is quite good. It's spicy with a touch of anise and just a slight essence of latex on the nose. Yes, you read that correct. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but is somewhat evocative of blowing up a beach ball. I recommend serving it at your next toga party.

6 out of 10

Harris Teeter, $9.99